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Marble And Granite Daily Maintenance Is Easy

It is time now to make sure that you contact a few basic guidelines for the proper maintenance and preservation. Maintenance of natural stone is not much harder than in any other material that is with us. The difference lies mainly in the cleaning agents. Stone - especially calcite based stones such as marble, travertine, limestone, etc. - are a sensitive chemical composition, the interaction in "foreign" (harmful) opportunities with the chemical solutions for cleaning, not specifically for the task.

Once you know what to use, all you have to do is the basic DOs' n 'Do not listed here:


Leaks can be very different in nature from another. Most of them will prove to be detrimental to stone if left unattended. Orange juice, lemonade, wine, vinegar, liqueurs, tomatoes, yogurt, salad dressing, perfume, After Shave, improper cleaning and so on, through a long list, most likely not damage "granite" and "green marble" surfaces, but ETCH polished marble, travertine, limestone, onyx and alabaster. Therefore,

Thursday pick any spill as quickly as possible to be preserved. Do not rub the accident, just dab it.

Do not use general cleaning product on your natural stone, or in the vicinity (eg: a liquid toilet cleaner, if the toilet is on a marble floor), unless the label indicates that it is based on the natural marble (cultured marble is man-made, and it is basically a plastic).


That means: A cleaning chore - any cleaning task - is rarely a matter of cleaning products only. Other factors are involved, such as a cleaning of the RAG, a sheet of paper, a wash pad, a squeegee, and so on. Without these additional resources, the cleaner is not much good! What's more, sometimes the nature and quality of resources is as important as the quality of the cleaning product. If some sub-par means that the cleaning product is not at its best. This fact has never been as in the case of a shiny floor. I have often noted, households, what I call pathetic mops, often not so clean, either together with small groups, to prepare for the solution! A good quality and smooth MOP mopping bucket are the key for the best results at mopping your polished stoneware or porcelain floor.

In all my experience I have concluded that sponge mops are not the best types of MOP for a highly polished floor. My favorites are very good size, closed-loop cotton string mops. It is always best, at least a couple of MOP heads, so that if one is dirty, everything you have to do is throwing it in the washing machine and use one in the meantime. The MOP group is very important. Small little bucket of water (which, of course, is dirty, very short) and they have no means to wring the provisional MOP correct. Professional MOP-type bucket with a wringing, that good 4-GL solutions for cleaning are highly recommended. Excellent MOP handles and heads, as well as an excellent bucket with wringer on wheels (by "Rubbermaid") are in the cleaning Isle of The Home Depot. They are relatively inexpensive, too. It is an investment worth if you have a lot of hard floors in your house!


Newly installed floors. The best thing to do to create a new polished stone floor is an offer by an individual adequately trained caretakers, or a professional stone refinisher. Detailing means deep cleaning of floor virtually square centimeter by square inch, the elimination of all possible grout residue or film and adhesive, with the potential to leave little damage by workers, or a few possible errors factory, and open the pores of the stone with a few special cleaning agents, so that the stone can "breathe" and dry.

Should you decide not to have your detailed floor, NON-MOP moist soil immediately after installation and grout? While you would not lead to a real damage, the fine powder on the floor probably will be by the water and may leave ugly and hard to remove all the stripes on the surface. For the first week or so, just vacuum and dust mop (NOT treated dust mop!) Soil, as often as you can. They will know that it is ready to be washed, when your hands are clean (no whitish powder) after rubbing on the floor.

Do not use water: It will not cut through soil and stripes. We recommend using a solution of water and "MB-1", marble, granite floor cleaner, and more, the share back in the bottle label. Do not use more than that. While no damage would occur, would be a visible film on the floor, the surface will be a wash, so that time and what's more, a very important part of the product. DO NOT rinse. The wording of MB-1 contains specially selected inorganic salts, which are on the surface of the stone and as moisturizers and optical brighteners. When used in proper proportion and with the right resources, MB-1 is your floor completely streak-free and it will actually increase the brightness of the soil! Should you decide not to MB-1?

Like any soap, soap stone remains a difficult to remove the deposit on the surface of the stone. Stone soaps are very limited and mainly quite different than the cleaning of a highly polished stone floor, no matter what the label says on the bottle (the seller has nothing to do with the right care stone!). Even so-called "rinse-free" stone soaps are a marketing fraud. In fact, by reading the back label on the bottle, you will learn that every so often (if you do not log in to your streaky and smeary floor no more, that is!) They should be a serious stripper / degreaser (from the same company, of course!), all the "valuable" scum, the accumulation on the floor by beautiful otherwise not rinse it after damp-mopping it.

NON-MOP mist soil with a solution of water with a commercial cleaner, unless the label specifically pointed out that their use is safe on natural marble (cultured pearls Marble Marble is not: it is man-made plastics).Worse still, NON-MOP moist soil with a solution of water and vinegar. That would be disastrous is literally at the finish line of marble, travertine, limestone, etc.! Vinegar is not a real detergent at the beginning, and it is very acidic (acetic acid). Use vinegar in your salad bowl, or for other purposes was for cooking.

If your soil is in a foyer or other room with direct access to the outside,

Use proper mats. The leather or rubber shoes are not damage your floor: dirt. Do not look for "fairly" mats, for the good! "Astroturf" mats from Monsanto Co., (heavy on the doorstep and finer inside) are among the best in my professional opinion. They come in colors too! A good janitorial supply company and they should cut them for you own. Look in the Yellow Pages and call around. Most janitorial supply companies and retailers like to do so! Clean your carpets often. If they are saturated with dirt and sand, they will no longer work.

Many customers ask me what they should do to end the factory (or the goal of a newly restored floor). No matter how elaborate the answer might be, in the end only spells: WORK. No work = no luster. There is no exception to this basic equation! If one is willing to work in order to protect the "Showroom" Finish "of his car with regular waxing, the same principle should apply to a polished stone floor (actually even more. After all, you do not walk to your car!). "MB-7" marble, granite and more Polish keeper is an excellent artist. Do not expect miracles, but let me begin the product should be so soon after the installation or restoration as possible.

It is the conservation of the stone surface polish not to do! If you think that the application when the ground begins to show damage (wear patterns), MB-7 is an excellent offer to receive ... the damage! What's more, by the same principle that a good quality car wax is not the original "Showroom" Finish "from your car forever, it will Mb-7 with the polished stone floor. Absolute protection is not possible, but if they regularly as directed, Mb-7 will make your soil age gracefully and it will never be a real eyesore. MB-7 must be either a professional or a small residential floor buffer (at Sears and other appliance stores).

Kitchen TOPS

I would assume that your kitchen-top is made from either granite or green marble. While spray cleaner from the shelves of the local supermarket could themselves too hard - so damaging - for the fragile make-up on the basis of lime-stones such as marble, travertine, limestone, etc., in theory, it could be safely used to clean " granite and green marble (at least most of them). All genuine granite and many other "Granite" (Stein, that are traded, such as granite, granite but are not) and all green marble need to be sealed with a good quality impregnator-type intrusion Sealer (MB-4 is an excellent and impregnator, best of my knowledge, the only one with a 20-year warranty), and seals - though invisible - must be dealt with from a maintenance perspective. In other words, the generic spray cleaner not (perhaps) in damage to the stone itself, it could prove harmful to the impregnator seal, which eventually lead to your coloring of unprotected counter top. So as not to chance

Clean your kitchen regularly top with "MB-5" marble, granite and more spray cleaner, full strength, especially in areas close to the cooking and eating.

Do not let any spill sit too long on the surface of your counter top. Clean up spills (preferably by blotting) as quickly as you can.


Thursday clean it regularly with "MB-5" marble, granite and more Spray Cleaner. In view of the typical light cleaning is necessary on a vanity top, MB-5 can be diluted in a ratio of 2: 1 with water (2 water and 1 MB-5) and still properly (You can use an extra spray bottle in each DIY). So far as the mirror over the vanity top concerns, not the chances of a regular glass cleaner: about possible spill-spray could be on the marble surface and can be damaged. Therefore, clean your mirrors with the same solution of water and MB-5. Even if you spray it is nothing bad about your marbles.

Do not use detergents powder, or - even worse - the cream cleansers, such as Soft Scrub.

Do not do your nails on the marble vanity top, or your Perm nearby.

Do not wet bottle on it (perfume, after-shave, etc.). Keep your cosmetics and fragrances in these beautiful mirror trays, and make sure that the legs of the tray has felt tips. Shower

Tile showers - whether ceramic or natural stone - a very sensitive and challenging environment, because of the serious nature of its use.

It is quite a difference in use between the walls of the bathroom outside the stall, and the same on the inside walls! For this reason, the first real and important concern is that the installation is properly carried out, because a bad installation will inevitably lead to an expensive mistake. Besides all the plumbing (which also includes the shower pan) and the film with the right material (no green boards are!), It is important that a provision of 1 / 16 "gap (the thickness of a round toothpick) between the tiles is the issue of the proper Grouting. While in the walls outside the shower installation "butt connected" (i.e. no gap between the tiles) is acceptable and, I admit it is nice to have the same type of Installation in the stable is an almost sure that the installation failed. In fact, the only grout the bridge phase, where the tiles meet, but not "root".